No. 220: Southern California's Zombieland

For me, there are few cocktails as fascinating as a zombie. Asides from being deceptively potent nature, it's got an interesting past, quite a few different recipes, and ominious warnings, with many bars explicitly noting they serve a two-zombie maximum per customer. There are a few variations on the origin of that cap, often relating to a guy who had a few and caused all sorts of mayhem and mishaps, from simply blacking out for the night to starting a raucous bar brawl to causing a traffic catastrophe while drunk-driving.

Regardless, zombies are definitely making an invasion in Southern California. Once limited to the confines of Tiki-themed places (Trader Vic's, Don the Beachcomber, Tiki-Ti) or rum-focused establishments (Cana, La Descarga, Sunny Spot), I've seen them surfaced in quite a few unexpected places. 

Naturally, I consider it a blogger duty to put a damper to this assault. So here's a roundup of a few surprise spots where you might spot a zombie... so be prepared to run (and drink!)

DOWNTOWN IN A SCHOOL!!!! (@ Public School 612*)

Ok, granted -- this was from a one-time event (Tiki 101, part of their '101' series of events where they educate on assorted libations, with a drink-paired multi-course meal to boot) but I was told the zombie may be making a comeback on their summer menu so keep your fingers crossed!

Asides from the Tiki totem cups (which attendees get to keep at the end of the night, by the way) this zombie variation stood out in that it used papaya puree to give it that tropical flair (in addition to pineapple juice.) While I usually don't care for its slightly musky smell, it did add an interesting note here. That aside, this zombie is one of the boozier-tasting ones I've tried, with the rums front & center.

But what I loved even more than the zombie itself is the creativity in the food presented in this class . . .

We had spam two ways (a traditional musubi, and a not-so-traditional kimchi slider)

Tuna-mango poke served in a coconut

And, paired with the zombie & my favorite of the night, a mushroom gravy loco moco with the egg poached, breaded in panko then fried! And just like the zombie itself, I hope some of these items get rotated onto the 612 menu.

But... just in case it does not make a reappearance anytime soon, the 101 classes do provide recipe cards of everything they make, so here's the one for their zombie.

Yes, I know papaya puree is hard to come by (PS612 made their own!) and I would probably swap it out for something more readily available, like mango nectar/juice.


WEST HOLLYWOOD IN A MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT!!! (@ Mezze)

The zombie here is also served in a tiki themed glass (but this one's not for taking home,) and it intrigued me because it definitely stands out for this restaurant and especially its cocktail menu, where most other drinks have some sort of Middle Eastern / Mediterranean touches.

And alas, as unique looking as it was on the cocktail menu and in the themed cup, it didn't exactly wow me. Not that it's bad, but my thoughts were "I taste rum & I taste juices" and that's pretty much it. It suffices for a tropically drink (say, by a poolside hotel or a coastal bar) but lacks that extra oompf.

On the other hand, my zombie expedition did lead me to try some other drinks and bites that are much more impressive...

Such as the The Wanderer, a tequila based cocktail with rosewater, a triple-play of hibiscus (in the syrup, flavored whipped cream and hibiscus-lavender bitters) and topped with sumac. And that final ingredient really made this something special, its tartness complements that of the hibiscus, but it also provided a kind of woodsy, kind of earthy note that balanced the flowery aromas and sweet flavor profile of this drink.

And this drink overall paired extremely well with the sweetbread shashouka, a comforting, spiced tomato stew with crunchy chunks of sweetbread, toasted pita strips, creamy yogurt and runny egg. The whipped cream worked nicely with the richer egg, sweetbread & yogurt while the tart & light portion of the drink cuts into that richness and complements the tomato the same time.

I also loved the subsequent Jam Fizz featuring bergamot jam and their housemade black lemon+ginger bitters. So while I am not particular fan of this zombie, I'm thankful that it led to me this gem of a place--which I look forward to returning again.


PASADENA IN THE DAYTIME!!!! (@ 1886 Bar / Raymond Restaurant*)

NOOO, Gourmet Pigs!!!!!!

And it's the first time I ever saw zombie featured as a brunch cocktail. For me, it was a welcomed change of pace from the bloody marys, mimosas and bellinis. 

Even though the cocktail is known to be potent, this zombie made for a surprisingly great daytime drink. It's light and cooling thanks to the crushed ice, has a wonderful fruity-boozy flavor profile from a nice balance of rums, juices and syrups (three rums, demarara & passionfruit syrup; lemon, lime & pineapple juices), and amazing aromas from the sprig of fresh mint and sprinkling of sweet spices on top.

Equally lovely is their recently-revamped brunch menu, and I particularly enjoyed my stack of cheddar & herb griddle cakes layered with spinach, mushrooms, smoked ham and topped with a poached egg. It's indulgent and delicate at the same time; I simply loved how the fluffy, mildly-savory pancakes offsets the stronger flavors and textures of the other components, making for a midday dish that satisfies without really weighing down (in guilt, and possibly on the scales.)


EVEN THE ORANGE COUNTY!!! (@ 320 Main)

Ok, so it's Rumdood tending the bar so it's not a huge leap that a zombie would surface here (though, you might want to avoid ordering this when the bar's swarmed, as Rumdood calls it a P.I.T.A. drink to make.) And of course, I wouldn't expect anything short of Zombie purism from him . . .

. . . down to the shaking duration that he timed on his smartphone (one minute, to be exact.) After seeing the recipe and witnessing his pours with all sorts of odd ratios & measurements, I can see why he considers it a PITA.

Like the Raymond version, I love its balance and complexity of aromas and flavors. There's fruitiness without being too tart or sweet, some spicy-bitterness but not overboard with it, and a pleasant, cleverly-cloaked backdrop of rum. And while I might not consider it worthwhile to make my own zombie with this recipe (All the ingredients I have to buy/make! All the dirty jiggers I'd have to wash afterwards! All that arm workout!) it was definitely worth the wait at 320 Main.

And to wash it down, their special-of-the-day Animal Flatbread, which really tasted like the deconstructed version of the In-n-Out burger. Like the Tiki 101 food items, I hope this makes a comeback (or better yet, find a permanent place) on their menu soon.

Last but not least, this zombie expedition also allowed me to buy Bananawonder a Bridey Mai Tai!

And so, there you have it -- four very different zombie experiences in four atypical locations, but all with relatively happy endings. Which is more than I can say for most zombie apocalypse films. 

*Disclosure: Public School 612 & Raymond tastings were from hosted events


Public School 612
612 South Flower Street
Los Angeles, CA 90017
(213) 623-1172
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Mezze
401 North La Cienega Boulevard 
West Hollywood, CA 90048
(310) 657-4103
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The Raymond / 1886 Bar1250 South Fair Oaks Avenue 
Pasadena, CA 91105
(626) 441-3136
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320 Main
320 Main Street 
Seal Beach, CA 90740
(562) 799-6246
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No. 214: Lamb Burger-ing Across LA

I might not be able to handle 30 hamburgers for 30 days straight or even cope with six courses of lamb in one sitting, but over the past few months I've had a dalliance, possibly an infatuation, with lamb burgers. Compared to its way more common beef patties, ground lamb burgers, with its tender-yet-lean texture and sweet-gamey flavor, are just so much more elegant and sophisticated . . . akin to turning that simple little black dress into a chic outfit with the right accessories. 

Speaking of accessories, I find that lamb burgers are often adorned with more daring veggies, sauces and cheeses (I guess chefs figure since they're already using an eccentric meat, why not push the envelope on everything else as well?) Of course, this makes the bovine counterpart's almost-formulaic toppings look very plain Jane. Iceberg lettuce, tomato, onion, cheddar-ish cheese & the 1000 Island-esque dressing? *yawn*

And as such, I've gone on a journey exploring lamb burgers at different venues around town, and here are my thoughts on them:

Public School 612*; $13 a la carte

The joint that really got me hooked onto lamb burgers (until that time I'm always worried they'd be too gamey,) the version here is adorned with a tomato-cranberry jam, arugula and melty brie cheese. And I'd say this is the best lamb burger for a beginner to dab his or her toes into... the patty itself isn't all that gamey, and one can't really tell if the unctuousness is from the brie or the lamb. Furthermore, it is contrasted with the sharp peppery bite of the arugula and the fairly intense sweet-tang of the jam, making for such a vibrantly-flavored burger that one doesn't even think much about if it's beef, lamb or otherwise. 

Extra tip: Their "Cutting Board" of assorted charcuterie and cheese is generously portioned and well worth the $14 (or however it's divided amongst your friends.) I also loved the brown bag fries here, and while beer is their forte, they did a decent job with the Sazerac too! And from eyeing their menu, I can't wait to return to try the fried cheese curds.

Comme Ca; $16 w fries & on Tuesdays only (when they do their burger nights)

Another good starter choice for the game-phobic, the patty here is actually a Merguez lamb sausage, so the bulk of the pungency is from its hefty herbs and spices. It is nicely complemented with the peppery arugula, as well as caramelized onions and roasted peppers. Unfortunately, I didn't realize until afterwards that it came out on the wrong bun, and a hearty ciabatta would've stood up better to the juicy burger and wet toppings than the softer & spongier brioche-like bun. But still, this was more well-liked than the two beef burgers our table ordered (and a close contender to #1 with the breakfast burger, really a glorified and gravy'd up Sausage McMuffin.)

Extra tip: If pairing burgers with wine is your thing, this is the place to go on Tuesdays; they have a nice list with quite a few delicious-yet-affordable selections by the glass or bottle (we wound up splitting a bottle of Rhone for around $45.) Of course, their cocktail list is not to be ignored either...

Short Order; $15 a la carte

I've deemed this the 'very green' burger for the sheer amount of arugula they threw in there, further bolstered with salsa verde garnish. And I love the whimsical use of feta as the cheese for this burger (and enough to overlook the messy cheese crumbles that fall off with each bite.) Whereas the two previous burgers seem to downplay the lamb's gaminess factor, this one tasted more like a celebration of it. It may look like a lot of greens, but they are definitely flavor backdrops in comparison to the earthy, sweetgrassy patty of lamb.

Extra tip: The burger is a la carte, but you should definitely splurge on the sides too! My +1 and I loved the Short Order Spuds that tastes amazingly half-baked & half-fried plus the springy and not-heavy-at-all macaroni salad (both $4). Oh, and splitted a Coffee Malt Custard Shake for dessert ($6.)

The Tripel*; $11 w salad

Upon first bite, I decided this was the funnest of the lamb burgers sampled. Simply put, it was party of flavors going on in my mouth. The cucumbers and pickled onions lent a refreshing familiar-but-distinct crunch (and I much welcomed the break from arugula on my lamb burgers) and the honey-harissa aioli is a wonderful "just right" sweet, spicy & pungent accompaniment to the burger without overpowering the flavor of the lamb. And I also love that this burger comes with a well-dressed salad on the side... so I can feel ever-so-slightly less guilty by dodging the fries and getting more leafy greens in my meal.

Extra tip: As the name suggest, Belgian-style beer is king here and their ever-changing taps are worth a check out (that night, I rekindled my love for Victory's Golden Monkey for $7.) Another must-order is their parmesan-poppy biscuits with a honey butter dip ($6), two-bite-sized pieces of heaven that hits you with the holy trinity of savory cheese, sweet butter and fluffy cloudlike carbs.

Haven Gastropub; $16 w fries

While I enjoyed all the lamb burgers I've tasted, this version is my favorite. I absolutely love their use of onion sprouts as the 'greens' for this burger; it does double duty of adding crunch & flavor. Likewise, the tzatziki sauce spread provides a cooling, herbal tang that adds creaminess without weighing the whole thing down like an aioli might've. And lastly, it is balanced out by the buttery sweetness of an onion jam, and as someone who always keep a supply of caramelized onions in the fridge, I approve!

However, I do have slight reservations about its accompanying dirty fries. They are flavorful but are hardly crispy at all. In fact, only the potato skins has an actual crunch, whereas the other sides have that oil-soaked flaccid-ness that's not very appealing (and despite my love for French fries, I couldn't bring my tastebuds - or blood vessels - to finish these.)

Extra tip: All of their craft cocktails lean towards the sweet side (e.g. their Manhattan variation features a Walnut liqueur & their Negroni spin switches out the standard Campari for its sweeter cousin, Aperol) so I'm more inclined to order beers here (after trying 2 of them and finding both way too sugary, I didn't even want to chance it with a standard cocktail.) 

~~~

So there you have it--five delicious lamb burgers all over L.A. to suit a multitude of palates & preferences. And yes, I've since had my share of bovine burgers, and solidly delicious as they are, every time I try on that simple little black dress of a beef patty my eyes and tastebuds always seem to yearn for the more edgy & flamboyant ovine outfit instead. But I find solace knowing that a lamb burger is never far away (not to mention plenty more to discover around town!)

*Disclosure: the burgers @ Public School 612 & Tripel were comp'd.

Public School 612
612 South Flower Street  
Los Angeles, CA 90017
(213) 623-1172
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@PS612

Comme Ca
8479 Melrose Avenue  
West Hollywood, CA 90069
(323) 782-1104
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@CommeCaWH

Short Order @ The Original Farmers Market
W 3rd St 
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 761-7970
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@ShortOrderLA

The Tripel
333 Culver Boulevard  
Playa Del Rey, CA 90293
(310) 821-0333
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Haven Gastropub (Pasadena)
42 South De Lacey Avenue
Pasadena, CA
(626) 768-9555
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@HavenGastropub