No. 220: Southern California's Zombieland

For me, there are few cocktails as fascinating as a zombie. Asides from being deceptively potent nature, it's got an interesting past, quite a few different recipes, and ominious warnings, with many bars explicitly noting they serve a two-zombie maximum per customer. There are a few variations on the origin of that cap, often relating to a guy who had a few and caused all sorts of mayhem and mishaps, from simply blacking out for the night to starting a raucous bar brawl to causing a traffic catastrophe while drunk-driving.

Regardless, zombies are definitely making an invasion in Southern California. Once limited to the confines of Tiki-themed places (Trader Vic's, Don the Beachcomber, Tiki-Ti) or rum-focused establishments (Cana, La Descarga, Sunny Spot), I've seen them surfaced in quite a few unexpected places. 

Naturally, I consider it a blogger duty to put a damper to this assault. So here's a roundup of a few surprise spots where you might spot a zombie... so be prepared to run (and drink!)

DOWNTOWN IN A SCHOOL!!!! (@ Public School 612*)

Ok, granted -- this was from a one-time event (Tiki 101, part of their '101' series of events where they educate on assorted libations, with a drink-paired multi-course meal to boot) but I was told the zombie may be making a comeback on their summer menu so keep your fingers crossed!

Asides from the Tiki totem cups (which attendees get to keep at the end of the night, by the way) this zombie variation stood out in that it used papaya puree to give it that tropical flair (in addition to pineapple juice.) While I usually don't care for its slightly musky smell, it did add an interesting note here. That aside, this zombie is one of the boozier-tasting ones I've tried, with the rums front & center.

But what I loved even more than the zombie itself is the creativity in the food presented in this class . . .

We had spam two ways (a traditional musubi, and a not-so-traditional kimchi slider)

Tuna-mango poke served in a coconut

And, paired with the zombie & my favorite of the night, a mushroom gravy loco moco with the egg poached, breaded in panko then fried! And just like the zombie itself, I hope some of these items get rotated onto the 612 menu.

But... just in case it does not make a reappearance anytime soon, the 101 classes do provide recipe cards of everything they make, so here's the one for their zombie.

Yes, I know papaya puree is hard to come by (PS612 made their own!) and I would probably swap it out for something more readily available, like mango nectar/juice.


WEST HOLLYWOOD IN A MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT!!! (@ Mezze)

The zombie here is also served in a tiki themed glass (but this one's not for taking home,) and it intrigued me because it definitely stands out for this restaurant and especially its cocktail menu, where most other drinks have some sort of Middle Eastern / Mediterranean touches.

And alas, as unique looking as it was on the cocktail menu and in the themed cup, it didn't exactly wow me. Not that it's bad, but my thoughts were "I taste rum & I taste juices" and that's pretty much it. It suffices for a tropically drink (say, by a poolside hotel or a coastal bar) but lacks that extra oompf.

On the other hand, my zombie expedition did lead me to try some other drinks and bites that are much more impressive...

Such as the The Wanderer, a tequila based cocktail with rosewater, a triple-play of hibiscus (in the syrup, flavored whipped cream and hibiscus-lavender bitters) and topped with sumac. And that final ingredient really made this something special, its tartness complements that of the hibiscus, but it also provided a kind of woodsy, kind of earthy note that balanced the flowery aromas and sweet flavor profile of this drink.

And this drink overall paired extremely well with the sweetbread shashouka, a comforting, spiced tomato stew with crunchy chunks of sweetbread, toasted pita strips, creamy yogurt and runny egg. The whipped cream worked nicely with the richer egg, sweetbread & yogurt while the tart & light portion of the drink cuts into that richness and complements the tomato the same time.

I also loved the subsequent Jam Fizz featuring bergamot jam and their housemade black lemon+ginger bitters. So while I am not particular fan of this zombie, I'm thankful that it led to me this gem of a place--which I look forward to returning again.


PASADENA IN THE DAYTIME!!!! (@ 1886 Bar / Raymond Restaurant*)

NOOO, Gourmet Pigs!!!!!!

And it's the first time I ever saw zombie featured as a brunch cocktail. For me, it was a welcomed change of pace from the bloody marys, mimosas and bellinis. 

Even though the cocktail is known to be potent, this zombie made for a surprisingly great daytime drink. It's light and cooling thanks to the crushed ice, has a wonderful fruity-boozy flavor profile from a nice balance of rums, juices and syrups (three rums, demarara & passionfruit syrup; lemon, lime & pineapple juices), and amazing aromas from the sprig of fresh mint and sprinkling of sweet spices on top.

Equally lovely is their recently-revamped brunch menu, and I particularly enjoyed my stack of cheddar & herb griddle cakes layered with spinach, mushrooms, smoked ham and topped with a poached egg. It's indulgent and delicate at the same time; I simply loved how the fluffy, mildly-savory pancakes offsets the stronger flavors and textures of the other components, making for a midday dish that satisfies without really weighing down (in guilt, and possibly on the scales.)


EVEN THE ORANGE COUNTY!!! (@ 320 Main)

Ok, so it's Rumdood tending the bar so it's not a huge leap that a zombie would surface here (though, you might want to avoid ordering this when the bar's swarmed, as Rumdood calls it a P.I.T.A. drink to make.) And of course, I wouldn't expect anything short of Zombie purism from him . . .

. . . down to the shaking duration that he timed on his smartphone (one minute, to be exact.) After seeing the recipe and witnessing his pours with all sorts of odd ratios & measurements, I can see why he considers it a PITA.

Like the Raymond version, I love its balance and complexity of aromas and flavors. There's fruitiness without being too tart or sweet, some spicy-bitterness but not overboard with it, and a pleasant, cleverly-cloaked backdrop of rum. And while I might not consider it worthwhile to make my own zombie with this recipe (All the ingredients I have to buy/make! All the dirty jiggers I'd have to wash afterwards! All that arm workout!) it was definitely worth the wait at 320 Main.

And to wash it down, their special-of-the-day Animal Flatbread, which really tasted like the deconstructed version of the In-n-Out burger. Like the Tiki 101 food items, I hope this makes a comeback (or better yet, find a permanent place) on their menu soon.

Last but not least, this zombie expedition also allowed me to buy Bananawonder a Bridey Mai Tai!

And so, there you have it -- four very different zombie experiences in four atypical locations, but all with relatively happy endings. Which is more than I can say for most zombie apocalypse films. 

*Disclosure: Public School 612 & Raymond tastings were from hosted events


Public School 612
612 South Flower Street
Los Angeles, CA 90017
(213) 623-1172
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Mezze
401 North La Cienega Boulevard 
West Hollywood, CA 90048
(310) 657-4103
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The Raymond / 1886 Bar1250 South Fair Oaks Avenue 
Pasadena, CA 91105
(626) 441-3136
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320 Main
320 Main Street 
Seal Beach, CA 90740
(562) 799-6246
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A few favorite warm-weather cocktails & bites

Now that the rain is decidedly gone for good and the sun's coming out in full force, it's time for drinks and bites to get a summer-ready makeover too. Having sampled quite a bit of each all over town, these are some of my favorite sips and nibbles worth slapping some SPF and making a trip for.

Drago Centro

 

In what I consider a bar's equivalent to breakfast-for-dinner, I loved Drago Centro's Shotgun Wedding, a breezy drink combining Laird's bonded apple brandy, prosecco, lemon, granny smith apples, maple sugar and a dash of baked apple bitters. Before you dismiss this as being too sugary-sweet based off the component list, I assure you it's not. The maple sugar balances out the potency of the apple brandy (which clocks in at 100 proof - yowza!) and if anything, this taste like mimosa's cheekier, apple-y cousin. 

 

And to go with this effervescent beverage, an equally refreshing plate of Crystal Point oysters with a cooling cucumber mignonette (for a very reasonable $5, I might add.) Sip on the cocktail, slurp down an oyster, repeat.

Also, my runner-up favorite cocktail @ Drago is the Night and the City, made with Old Tom Gin, mushroom bitters, squid ink, habanero & heirloom tomato shrubs, black pepper and fresh horseradish. For me, it tasted like another brunchtime favorite - Bloody Mary - but considerably more complex and a lot more easy to drink (since it lacked the gloppy texture & overwhelmingly sourness of tomato juice.)

Bar 1886

 

While my friend Conbon is all over their bottled Rum Whistle (at a media tasting with Gourmet Pigs, we had a collective 4 bottles... on top of everything else we tried *ahem*), my personal favorite is the MacArthur Park Swizzle, a tropical-themed drink with a blend of rums, lime juice, allspice dram, freshly-grated nutmeg, their secret Tiki mix and plenty of crushed ice to keep it chilled. Even though 1886 is in Pasadena, smelling the sweet-spicy fragrance and sipping on this thirst-quenching cocktail instantly transports me to an island beach (with their patio fireplace as a luau pit.)

 

And in a slightly eccentric twist, the bite I loved there is the Roasted Lamb Necks with Afghan. Definitely unexpected given the Americana vibe of the Raymond Restaurant (where 1886's at,) though I will say its menu have recently been pushing the envelope (other globally-inspired dishes served at the bar include dim sum shrimp toast sandwich and grilled hamachi collar with shishito peppers.) The neck pieces are wonderfully seasoned (reminiscent of an Indian curry) and perfectly roasted, slightly charred and crispy on the outside and falling-off-the-bone tender within. The warm and soft bread was great with the accompanying condiments (my favorite is the harissa mayo.)

Asia de Cuba*

 

Here, I found their Hemingway Thyme disarmingly delicious. There's not much to say--it's a well-done classic with a simple twist, DonQ aged rum with cane syrup, maraschino liqueur and lime juice topped with thyme foam and sprig. I'm just surprised at how this savory herb added another layer of complexity and elevated the drink.

 

Foodwise, my pick is their scallop tataki with dragon fruit. Each scallop is barely seared and then sliced in half into two discs, letting you feel both the caramelized-crispy side and the creamy raw side upon the first bite. The gelatinous, slightly-sweet dragonfruit slices worked well as a foil, and both were dressed in a sauce of aged rum, soy and ginger and topped with finger lime caviar, which nicely complemented the fruit and scallops without overpowering them. 

(FYI, for the indecisive, I also love their ceviche trio--which lets you mix & match assorted seafood ceviches.)

Umamicatessen

 

Just because summer's around doesn't mean there's no room for spirit-forward cocktails, and Umamicatessen's 9th and Broad proved just that, a Manhattan variation with apricot liqueur in addition to Woodford Reserve bourbon, Carpano Antica vermouth and Sailor Jerry's decanter bitters. It was incredibly smooth and only has a hint of stone fruit aroma, but it's enough to lighten up this cocktail meant for chillier times (I had this for a weekend lunch, when the temperature was in the 90s!)

 

And as much as I'd like to recommend their Calbi burger, with the patty drenched in that sweet-spicy-soy Korean BBQ marinade and topped with crispy onion strings, it was a special of the day burger and I have no idea if it'll resurface anytime soon. But l also enjoyed their Smushed Potatoes, with Dutch Yellow Creamer potatoes barely smashed then twice fried before being plated over a smear of aioli. I love how the twice-fried skin has almost the crispness of a potato chip, quickly yielding the fluffy starchy interior (which goes great with the aioli, tasting almost like a standard baked potato.)

Zengo*

 

From their Hanoi-Havana Test Kitchen menu (which runs through the end of June), I found their Lemongrass-Lychee Mojito to be a real treat. Like the Hemingway Thyme, it's a straightforward twist off a standard drink, but it's very well executed. I am surprised at how the lychee and lemongrass flavors stood out, but at the same time they harmonized well with the mint & lime notes. And, no surprise here, it was incredibly refreshing and pretty much quaff-able.

 

Foodwise, I love their Lemongrass Arroz Con Pollo. A wonderful testament to their fusion of Cuban and Vietnamese cuisine, I simply loved the combination of tastes and smells here - from the lemongrass-flavored chicken (surprisingly succulent and tender for breast meat, too!) to the mango salsa to the coconut-scented rice. The result is a wonderful balance of contrasts, being fresh and light, yet very indulgent at the same time.

The Hungry Cat

 

A longtime favorite for seafood and beverages (I still remember my crab fest carnage there a few years ago,) and while I love their seasonal-produce-driven cocktail program -- the 4 on the Floor is worthy of trying too. Another Manhattan spin (see at trend here?) with Buffalo Trace Bourbon and Pig's Nose Scotch, Carpano Antica and Maraska Maraschino (currently Luxardo's lesser known rival.) It's wonderfully balanced (a little oak, a little smoke, a little fruit equals a lot of fun for the nose & tastebuds) and incredibly smooth.

 

Of course, it's practically sacrilege not to order seafood here; so I opted for something from their constantly changing raw bar menu. This time, it's a shrimp, scallop and calamari ceviche with green garlic, fried tofu, yuzu, wasabi and sesame crisps. Whereas the cocktail is a subtle blending of smells and tastes, where you can't quite tell where one ends and the other begins, this ceviche is a fiesta of flavors. All the components asserted their individuality (the varying firmness of the "cooked" seafood and fried tofu, the pungence of the garlic, brightness of the yuzu, etc.) but made for fun combos as mixed and matched the different items with each bite, barely tied together with the vibrant ceviche juices.

Rivera

 

Bringing my roundup full circle, while I loved this restaurant's assorted seasonal concoctions, I fell back on an longtime favorite, the Barbacoa. This has been around for as long as the restaurant's been opened, and smoky-spicy combo of chipotle, ginger and mezcal never fails to dazzle my tastebuds. As an added perk, it still comes with slice of beef jerky to chew on.

 

But if you want a more substantial bite, go with the Viera Arabesque, a scallop dish that exemplifies the Moorish & North African influences in Spanish cuisine. Perfectly seared scallops are dressed in salty-sour preserved lemon, atop a bed of luscious eggplant, with stenciled dusting of Ras el hanout to give the dish as much spicy-fragrant kick as you'd like.

Or, if feel a bit splurgier (as Conbon, Jennio and I were feeling that day), spring for their Jamon Iberico de Bellota Pata Negra. 

*Note: Asia de Cuba & Zengo tastings were based off hosted media events. I've also tasted 1886's drinks & foods at a hosted event, but have subsequently re-tried them on my own.



Drago Centro
525 South Flower Street  
Los Angeles, CA 90071
(213) 228-8998
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Bar 1886 (@ Raymond Restaurant)
1250 South Fair Oaks Avenue
Pasadena, CA
(626) 441-3136
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Asia de Cuba (@ Mondrian LA)
8440 Sunset Blvd.
West Hollywood, CA
(323) 848-600
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Umamicatessen
852 S. Broadway
Los Angeles, CA 90014
(213) 413-8626
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Zengo
395 Santa Monica Place  
Santa Monica, CA 90401
(310) 899-1000
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The Hungry Cat
1535 Vine St
Los Angeles, CA
(323) 462-2155
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Rivera
1050 S. Flower St #102 
Los Angeles, Ca 
(213) 749-1460
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