No. 210: Caviar 101 Tasting @ Petrossian (West Hollywood)

Petrossian's been doing their Caviar 101 class for a while now, and having missed the caviar boat completely the last time I was there (a.k.a during my strictly vegetarian phase) -- I took the plunge earlier this month, not knowing exactly what to expect, giving my woeful lack of experience & knowledge with this gourmet treat.

Thankfully, there really are no questions too dumb to ask here, and General Manager Christopher Klapp (in foreground) was extraordinarily patient and tactful responding to a broad range of inquiries (ranging from a comparatively basic "are the caviar-producing fishes wild-caught or farmed?" [at Petrossian, the vast majority are sustainably farmed] to being quizzed average size/weight of sturgeon [varies considerably depending on species & region caught/raised].)

Likewise, it was definitely enlightening to go through a structured, almost-analytical tasting of different caviar and other fish roe (Klapp noted that real caviar should really be sturgeon eggs that are salted & processed in a specific fashion, not just any 'ole roe.) 

In a manner similar to wine tasting, we were encouraged to engage all our senses -- from looking at the color & size of the roe, to smelling for any particular aromas, to the tactile feel & audible sound of the beads as they roll and pop in your mouth, and of course the eventual flavors that land on the tastebuds.

And on this particular Caviar 101 class, instead of the usual glass of vodka or champagne that comes with the tasting, the brand ambassador from Pommery took us through a flight of their champagnes to mix, match & pair with the caviars (pictured above is their Brut Rosé.) Of the four, I found the Pommery Brut Royal most memorable, with a creamy-toasty aroma that quickly gives way to a bright, citrusy tang and a clean, dry finish. 

The assorted fish roe and caviar samples were served on plastic spoons, since Klapp mentioned that metal affects the flavor of the caviar--and quickly added their tins are lined to protect the flavor & integrity of the caviar.

Between samplings, we were also treated a few snacky, caviar-infused bites by Chef Gisele Wellman, including flatbread topped with caviar, chopped egg, chives and capers and a refreshing, multi-faceted shot of caviar with diced watermelon, microgreen, sesame and ginger-soy sauce. 

And while the kitchen does have fun and take liberties with incorporating caviar, Klapp said he prefers savoring caviar in a simple, traditional manner (with just blini and creme fraiche) so that the roe's flavor not interrupted or overshadowed. Nonetheless, he conceded that there are many traditions and styles of enjoying caviar, and if customers prefer a little onion or capers or other stronger accompaniments, that's OK with him too.

Last but not least, I found out I'm sort of a cheap date as far as my caviar tastes go. To mitigate price-related biases, we tasted our way through the eight roes without knowing how much each costs (though I did suspect we were going from cheapest to priciest.) My favorite of the tasting was the Wild-Caught Hackleback from the Midwest U.S. of A., which had a sublime oiliness with a intense flavor and bewitching aroma that I can only best describe as "amplified sashimi." And for 30g (approx. 2 tablespoons,) it clocked in at $55. Still a luxury item in my book, but small fry compared to Royal Ossetra--which we also tried--that's $139 for the same portion.

And throughout the tasting, Klapp sprinkled in all sorts of fun trivia about raising, sorting/grading, storing and serving caviar . . . but I'll let you discover these fun tidbits yourself. Needless to say, I found the experience more than worth the $35 (+tax/tip). But be sure to R.S.V.P., it was a full house when I went and it only takes place two days out of each month (first Thurs & Fri).

Or, if you have a little more experience, sophistication and discretionary income ($75 + tax/tip) -- Petrossian also offers a Caviar 201 session on the last Thurs. & Fri. of each month, offering a few more snacks, more luxe caviar tastings and a little more fun with beverage pairings. And something for me to aspire to... in the meantime, I might consider wrangling a few friends and share a formal tasting of that Hackleback.

What Do Others Say About Caviar 101?

- LA Weekly said it's "one class we wouldn't mind running late" considering "in most classes, you don't get to drink vodka and eat caviar. [Here] you do nothing but."
- Eric the Epicure said "if you love the fancy black stuff, but don't know much about it, this is a great chance to learn more about caviar from one of the world's finest purveyors"
- Caroline on Crack shared her top 10 learnings from this class and "came away an appreciator of salty pearls."
- Deep End Dining wrote a hilarious post on the experience, concluding that the roe "were all buttery, nutty and briny and definitely vodka-y by the end of the class."

Petrossian West Hollywood Boutique and Restaurant

321 North Robertson Boulevard

West Hollywood, CA 90048-2415

(310) 271-6300

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Recipe 28: Autumnal Apples & Pears Mulled Wine

A lighter and more autumn-y take than my spicier & more robust mulled wine from last year, I concocted this version for a friend's pre-Thanksgiving/housewarming potluck celebration this past weekend - partly because it was going to be rainy (warm cocktail would be a major plus) and there were more than a dozen attendees (so I'd much rather do a batched cocktail rather than making individual ones) and because I was late to RSVP, and almost all the other appropriate food dishes (from appetizers to sides to desserts) have already been spoken for, but no one took the cocktail slot. What better way to show off my amateurish mixing abilities, or how much of a lush I am.

And, actually I'd consider a "new & improved" version of the mulled wine. It still has the bite of the sweet spices (maybe even a little more so, since I used fresh ginger this time,) balanced with the breezy fruitiness of apples and pears (which I kicked up another notch with apple juice & pear liqueur.) Plus, being a slow cooker recipe, it's one you can have simmering throughout the party and just have guests ladle away.

So without further ado...

Apples & Pears Slow Cooker Mulled Wine

Ingredients (for approx. 15 5 oz. servings)

1 cup water

1 cup apple juice

1 cup pear brandy or liqueur (I used Mathilde's Poire), separated in 2 half-cup portions

1.5 cups sugar

2 medium apples (I used Jonagolds), 

2 medium pears (I used Boscs)

1 medium lemon

3-inch piece of fresh ginger root, rinsed and cut to 1/8-inch thick pieces

4 star anise pods

3 cinnamon sticks

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon allspice

2 bottles of light, dry white wine (I used Fresh & Easy's Ora Pinot Grigio, discounted @ $3.99 a bottle when I bought it)

Directions

Preparing the apple n pear spiced syrup (can be done night ahead)

1. Combine apple juice and water in a saucepan over medium heat, bring to a gentle boil.

2. Add sugar and stir vigorously until combined, then add ginger slices, star anise pods, cinnamon sticks, ground allspice and nutmeg.

3. Reduce heat to low and allow it to simmer for about 15 minutes.

4. Turn off heat and add half a cup of pear liqueur. Proceed to making mulled wine or store in the fridge.

Making the mulled wine

1. In a six-quart (or larger) slow cooker, combine spiced syrup, 2 bottles of wine and the juice of 1 lemon. Set the slow cooker to a low setting, which is usually just below alcohol's boiling point. (if you want, you can strain out the spices from the syrup at this time, but I left them in to amp up the spiciness & fragrance as the slow cooker heats it up...)

2. While the mulled wine is heating up, rinse, core and chop the apples and pears into thin pieces/slices/wedges. Add to slow cooker, cover it and allow to heat for approximately an hour.

3. Add the remaining half-cup of pear liqueur just before serving. You can leave it on the low setting, or dial it down to the "keep warm" setting, for the duration of serving.

Recipe 24: Slow Cooker Hot Mulled Wine

This mulled wine recipe is fast becoming my favorite holiday party cocktail to bring to cold-weather potlucks and parties-- steaming hot and bursting with citrus and sweet spice aromas, it's absolutely heavenly to sip on over a chilly night while everyone mix 'n mingle.

And the best part is that prep work is minimal and guests can serve themselves, so you can enjoy the party too rather than obsess about mixing and refreshing drinks. That is until the entire batch disappeared in 30 minutes (which is what happened @ the soiree I brought it to.)

Here's my recipe (adapted from Epicurious' version) that makes about eight five-ounce servings:

Ingredients:
1 bottle dry red wine (I used Old Moon Zinfandel from Trader Joe's, retailed for $3.99)
2 lemons, sliced into wheels
1 orange, sliced into half-wheels
1-2 cinnamon sticks
2 star anise pods
1.5 cups sugar
1.5 cups water
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon freshly-ground pepper
3 ounces orange liqueuer (optional, I used Grand Marnier)

Directions:
1. Prepare the spiced syrup (can be done the night before) by bringing the water to a simmer, then add the sugar, vanilla extract & the ground allspice, ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper - stir until sugar is dissolved.
2. Turn on a six-quart slow cooker to the HIGH setting, and combine the spiced syrup with the bottle of red wine, citrus slices, cinnamon sticks & star anise pods. Give it a quick stir, then cover it and let it sit for about an hour (or when it starts to simmer.)
3. Bring the slow cooker down to a LOW or WARM setting, add the orange liqueur and the mulled wine is ready to serve! (Also, the wine-soaked fruit is absolutely tasty to nibble on!)

And for all those designated drivers and others who'd rather not get spirited away -- I'd imagine this formula to be delightful for a spiced cider too. Just use 25 ounces apple juice or cider in lieu of the red wine -- and of course, no liqueur. Cheers!