No. 206: American Farmhouse Tavern (Manhattan Beach)

Continuing on my love of South Bay's resurgence in the dining scene (see: Strand House, MB Post), I had the lucky chance to check out American Farmhouse Tavern for a media dinner in late September. While it was a bit more inland and away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Manhattan Beach, I was intrigued by its menu (particularly the complete meal concept) so again I went to the M.B. (which has already became one of my favorite beaches in town.)

Upon arrival, I took notice of the place's interior. True to its name, it has a rustic-country farmhouse feel with a few modern touches here and there, such as studio lights juxtaposing against vintage family portraits and assorted wall curios.

While waiting for the dinner to commence, I settled into the bar and got a cocktail, the Buffalo Smoke made with Buffalo Trace Bourbon, St. Germaine, peach nectar and a bacon-wrapped sugarcane. The drink leaned a bit too sweet for me at first, but it later proved to be a nice contrast against the smoky, savory bacon. Of course, it's also ingenious for being a cocktail I can drink AND eat at the same time!

After a while (and a few small bites to keep our appetites at bay,) we were escorted into the Parlour Room in the back for our dinner. As I noted, what sets American Farmhouse Tavern apart is the complete meal menu, where almost every entree includes soup, salad, choice of side AND choice of dessert. And the four-course dinner is totally worth the bang for the buck, ranging from $13 for a Linguica Sausage sandwich to $29 for a bacon-wrapped filet mignon.

On this particular dinner, we sampled a fwe items from their fall menu -- but first off we started with

Farmhouse vegetable stew with cattleman beans, Santa Maria vegetables in broth and Santa Maria-style salsa that you get to combine to your liking. This starter was a delightful mix of contradictions, with the delicately savory broth set against the zesty pico de gallo-esque salsa, and the rich, hearty beans.

Of course, I appreciated the "customize-your-own" aspect. As you can see, I kept mine on the light side with way more broth & veggies -- since I know there'll probably be plenty to nosh on later.

After the soup came the wedge salad, which was another much-welcome surprised. Whether than the typical wedge of milquetoast iceberg lettuce & bland tomato drowning in a heavy Bleu Cheese dressing, here it's a flavorful blend of Bibb, grape tomatoes and carrot-onion strips in a tangy-spicy Cabernet Vinaigrette. Normally another pet peeve of mine are salads that I have to use a knife on, but I definitely didn't mind cutting this up and eating all those tender, crunchy, flavorful layers of vegetables.

After that came the trio of entrees, which I was more thankful to split with my +1.

A generous cut of perfectly-roasted prime rib with creamy horseradish and savory au jus, plus a thick cut of Texas toast and two ice cream scoops worth of addictive mashed potatoes (that we later found out was made with LOTS of butter...) In short, solid and comforting steak 'n potatoes fare.

Next we tried the Housemade pappardelle pasta with butternut squash, spit-roasted duck, sage and browned butter - a decidedly 'sweeter' entree thanks to the squash and a hint of sweet spices, the components definitely scream 'Autumn!' and this is an interesting seasonal spin for the pasta dish, though I might prefer this more as a half-portion primi dish than a full-on entree, being one of those pastas that's fun to eat for the first few bites, but a bit overwhelming to finish, though my friend was more than happy to doggy-bag the remainders for lunch the day after.

Pecan-crusted rainbow trout with lemon herbed butter and rice pilaf - a straightforward-sounding dish that was excellently executed, the fish was firm and not dried out, and the crust lends a pleasant woodsy, nutty crunch without being too greasy or gritty. The lemon butter was a nice addition, though I think the fish was totally fine on its own. And the pilaf is a decent accompaniment, fluffy and tender, though less memorable of a side dish compared to the buttery taters.

Even though we were stuffed to the brim after all those belly-busting courses, I couldn't resist the pie a la mode that came out. Flaky crust, check. Not-too-sweet fruit filling, check. Alas, even with my love of all things sugary, I only finished about half this pie.

Of course, as we chatted with the chef & public relations rep throughout and after the meal, they made it known that there's no shortage of incentives to come back. From a fried half-chicken night (Sundays) for $15, to a lunchtime/pre-dinner/late-night happy hour with $4 draft beer, wines and well drinks, and the occasional entertainment events from Monday Night Football to live Jazz performances.

Though between the budget-friendliness, deliciously satisfying meals and the MUCH easier parking are all the perks I need to keep me coming back for more!

What Do Others Say?
- South Bay Foodies said "given the grill, the cocktails, and the fun farmhouse theme, I’m sure they will be setting the standard for Taverns & Dining Halls for a while."
- Gourmet Pigs noted that "if you're looking for a simple meal with great grilled meats, look no further."
- LA Weekly's Squid Ink praised their happy hours, mentioning that "there couldn't be a happier place than American Farmhouse Tavern & Dining Hall in Manhattan Beach."
- South Bay Sparkles said "a place to go out for dinner that’s traditional and yet has a few memorable twists."

American Farmhouse Tavern
924 North Sepulveda Boulevard
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
(310) 376-8044
Twitter
Facebook

No. 205: Strand House (Manhattan Beach)

Beachside restaurants tend to get a bit of flack for serving subpar food. And generally, I'd agree -- many coastal eateries do dish out mediocre fare and can get away with it, relying on its ocean views & tourist traffic to drive business.

So indeed, I was a bit skeptical with The Strand House's initial promises of "great food and great views" (especially since the former restaurant in that space, Beaches, is WAY more well known for the latter.) But when I found out that Neal Fraser (of Grace & BLD fame) consulted on the menu, I was intrigued enough to take up their invite and met up with my friend (and South Bay local) Eric for a hosted meal there (while serving as the photog magnifiqué.)

Upon arrival, I noticed that the lobbyesque reception/waiting area was flanked by a series of enomatic machines offering approximately 20 wines. Co-owner Michael Zislis told me that each of the partners had a hand in selecting the wines, usually something unfamiliar and eccentric (and well worth a try for $2 a taste, or $8 a glass.) Of the ones I tasted, the refreshing, citrusy Torrontes is my favorite as a pre-meal sipper.

Afterward the tastings, we were led on a brief tour through the four levels of the complex, including the underground wine cellar & private event/meeting space, with its walls lined with the co-owners favorite wines and its own mini-bar.

Then going half a level up, the lounge & bar area where I enjoyed a Hammerhead made with Cruzan single barrel & overproof rums, falnerum, absinthe, spice dram, lime juice, mint and kaffir lime leaf. It was a eccentric, fun marriage of mojito and tiki-style drinks (and definitely just as quaffable,) with the anise-y/licorice-y note of the absinthe adding a zing of complexity.

Finally, we settled into the dining room area - where we tried a out a myriad of fine dishes. For me, the particular standouts included

Hamachi Crudo with Avocado, Tomato Seed Vinaigrette, Chives, Pickled Onions, Microgreens and Red Hawaiian Salt - Yes, yellowtail-in-the-raw is one of those sure-fire appetizers you can find near everywhere that's at least a 'not bad', but the accompanying ingredients, from the mildly tart vinagirette to the sweet onions to the buttery avocado and aromatic chives, made it a standout -- accentuating the firm-yet-smooth fatty flesh of the fish without overpowering its delicate flavors.

Likewise for the Heirloom Tomato Salad with Microgreens, Burrata, Avocado and Balsamic Vinagirette. Another somewhat typical dish, but here the quality of the ingredients definitely shone through, and this salad tasted as colorful as it looked. These tomatoes are definitely the sweetest, most flavorful ones I've had this whole year. And it was nicely contrasted by the duo of creaminess from the avocado and burrata, and a nice linger of the richly complex balsamic vinegar.

After the appetizers, we had an assortment of charcuterie & cheeses. My favorites of each was the Truffle Tremor from Cypress Grove (big surprise, huh?) and the Lonza, a pork loin dry cured with chile and fennel, which has considerably less 'funk' than the average charcuterie offerings, not too salty and a nice accent of spice and herbs that did not overpower the whole salumi.

Of the entrees, while we found the Sauteed Halibut on English Pea Risotto a lovely seafood dish, that was quickly overshadowed by the Hanger Steak, juicy, beefy slices grilled to a flawless medium-rare with charred onions and a watercress gremolata. After all the other solid dishes we had so far, I didn't doubt that they'd do a hanger steak well; but here the gremolata gave it the primo edge--it was just citrusy, herby and garlicky enough to balance the hefty steak without stealing the show (unlike gremolatas I've had in the past that are WAY too overpowering.)

Our courses were also paired interestingly with wines, though all were great with their respective dishes -- the one we loved best (and would definitely get a bottle of in a store, or order off a menu) was the Orogeny Pinot Noir, with its berry-forward notes quickly giving way to a grounded earthiness and subtle spices and finished with a wisp of soft tannins.

And finally, desserts -- possibly in an homage to Grace's famous Doughnut Shoppes, our sweets were Butterscotch-filled Doughnuts with Pine Nuts, Powdered Bacon, and Burnt Peach Jelly. In short, they were irresistible packages of sugary joy, the crisp, doughy crust quickly giving way to a warm, molten, buttery interior - kept in check by the comparatively tarter peaches.

Last and in no way least, the gorgeous coastal views of Manhattan Beach (this was taken @ the pier before our dinner); Strand House just a block from the shore and it's floor-to-ceiling windows offer an amazing scenery (my suggestion for first timers - come during sunset - it'll blow you away!)

Suffice it to say, I'm thrilled about this addition to the Manhattan Beach dining scene -- lovely views, delicious food, fun concept/layout -- and can't wait to come back to check out their other fare too! (though Eric beat me to it, he loved it so much he actually came back the Tuesday after!)

What Do Others Say?
- South Bay Foodies also encourage diners to "get there just before sunset," even if only for drinks and a nibble.
- KevinEats think this place is "on track here [despite] some minor quibbles with some of the dishes" and also notes the lounge/club area "a prime location for potential panty peepers."
- Reporting for Daily Breeze, Merrill Shindler said "Zislis and partners have gutted the old Beaches and turned it into the oceanfront restaurant we've long dreamed of, the place to take out-of-towners who can't understand why we choose to live on a fault line."
- LA's the Place noted that "The Strand House is the quintessential modern yet casual restaurant that emphasizes the beach-chic style Manhattan Beach is known for."

Additional photos on flickr here all photos courtesy of Eric So

The Strand House
117 Manhattan Beach Blvd.
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
310.545.7470
Facebook

No. 200: MB Post (Manhattan Beach)

After a blissful, sunny afternoon of rollerblading up and down the South Bay (or as I call it, Red Hermando -- for Redondo, Hermosa, Manhattan & El Segundo beaches,) I decided I might as well dine in the neighborhood too. I have heard some good buzz about the newly-opened MB Post, and had a good impression of David LeFevre's cooking from his previous post @ Water Grill in downtown LA, so I met up with Caroline on Crack to get some impromptu bites & sips.

Since it was Saturday evening and located in downtown Manhattan Beach, I wasn't surprised at how jam-packed the space was. What was a bit more shocking is that there was absolutely no waitlist for walk-ins that night, so our only option if we want to eat without a reservation is at the bar that seats about 15, which of course was packed as well (and already surrounded by other barstool buzzards.) We were slightly peeved, especially since some tables stayed vacant for about half an hour, but decided to go for a round of drinks at least... while keeping a sharp eye out for anyone wrapping up at the bar.

Our first cocktails did LOTS to alleviate our vulturing angst. My Southern Hospitality (front), a bourbon punch with grilled peach, cinnamon and vanilla, was superb. Sweet-smelling without actually tasting sugary, and the fruit + spices were wonderfully balanced against the Eagle Rare. Plus, it was super quaffable! While we would sip on many more tasty cocktails throughout this meal, this is surely my fave of the list. Meanwhile, Caroline on Crack got the equally refreshing & downable Dirge: Corpse Reviver. Both were great for a still-warm summer evening, maybe not-so-great considering our empty stomachs (and me not having eaten for at least six hours.) And indeed, they packed an unexpectedly early wallop.

Just when we finished our first drinks two seats opened up @ the bar, so we swooped in and snagged them. After going through the whole menu (that I'm giving extra kudos for being updated daily plus spontaneously-looking last-minute scribbles!) we decided on sharing three entrees... and another round of drinks.

Our first edible dish was the nectarine tart with whipped ricotta, arugula and candied walnuts (a.k.a. what Caroline and I both yelled "YES!" to when we saw it on the menu.) The dish was a lot more savory than I anticipated, with nectarines lending more of a sweet, fruity acidity to the dish -- almost like an aged balsamic vinegar. And it worked very well with the crisp, peppery greens, gooey, mild-flavored cheese, crunchy nuts. Overall, it reminded me a bit of caprese salad with a decidedly contemporary & Californian twist -- and on top of a buttery, crumbly crust! After we wolfed this down, we both contemplated getting another order...

Number two was what I dubbed "Corn & Grits": grilled corn kernels on top of Anson Mills' antebellum white corn grits with fontina cheese and chili. Total comfort dish -- hot, hearty and cheesy, with the occasional welcoming pop of heat & sweetness from the chili and kernels. And somehow, this dish didn't feel super-heavy, which I appreciated since we still have a few more items to eat.

Our entree was local white sea bass (I believe it was from Santa Barbara area), with a 'summer vinaigrette', kalamata olives, basil and squash slices. It was well-prepared: the fish was firm and meaty without being overcooked, and the vinaigrette was well-seasoned and struck a nice balance between oil & acid, but it felt a bit lackluster compared to the first two things we had--maybe because it was a more straightforward dish. Nonetheless, even after the fish & veggies were gone we used our bread to lap up the remaining sauce.

Still slightly less-than-full, and in need of something to soak up the alchy, we added an order of their fleur de sel pretzel with David's nuclear horseradish mustard. It hit the spot as a bar food, with a salty, crispy exterior and spongy dough within, with a dip that adds a distinctive bite that's, thankfully, less spicy than the name suggests.

Rounding off our meal, at the suggestion of our bartend and ChowBalla (who was dining there that night,) we got the "Elvis" -- a decadent combo of peanut butter mousse, chocolate pudding, caramelized bananas and bacon brittle. Everything tasted great on its own, but when combined it turned into a little spoonful for heaven. Maybe even a little more for me, since Caroline was pescatariany, thus giving me free reign over all the bacony brittle goodness.

And now, back to drinks -- midway through out meal, Caroline and our bartender recognized each other (turns out he worked the Andaz back @ the first Blogger Prom!) which meant more cocktails to sample on top of what we've already ordered! Fortunately, with actual solid food in our stomach we actually held our own ... but still fell shy of finishing everything. As noted before, all the drinks we had were great, and while Southern Hospitality is still a winner for me, here are some others that are noteworthy too:

The "Mo-Pho-Jito", with a Southeast Asian twist on the traditional mojito, with Starr African Rum, ginger, coriander honey topped with zests of kaffir lime. I am already a fan of well-made mojitos (a.k.a. any that's not over-the-top with excessively-smashed mint leaves,) but this one definitely takes it to a whole new level. While there's only a smidgen of ginger's spiciness & the coriander seemed absent altogether, those freshly-grated zests hit the spot!

"Virgil's Ascent", a Negroni variation with cloves and pomegranate seeds - a great summer take on a drink that's traditionally bolder and heftier. It still has the classic's bouquet of floral & herbal aromas, but the fruit and cloves gave it a delightfully spritzier feel that makes it an easy warm-weather sipper.

The Belgian-influenced beer list is worth a look too - we wound up splitting a Buffalo Belgian Stout from Brouwerij Van den Bossche, which turned out to be great on its own or with sweets. It definitely has the characteristic chocolatey-coffee notes from the dark-roasted malts, but is considerably lighter in body than most stouts and a tinge of fruity-yeasty notes that made for a complex & provocative brew worthy of sniffing & sipping. Repeatedly.

And after all that eating and drink, we decided it would be wise to take a sobering stroll, around downtown Manhattan Beach and the pier -- and played around with the night-shot settings on our cameras. Which made for an absolutely blissful day (and night) in the South Bay.

Though of course next time I'll try to make a reservation or go at a less busy time of the week.

What Do Others Say?
- Thirsty in LA said South Bay residents "can now stay local to enjoy reasonably-priced, sophisticated cuisine and craft cocktails in a sleek and comfortable space."
- Gastronomy said "thirty-some-odd miles is quite a distance to travel for dinner, but the trip was more than worth my while."
- Brad A. Johnson, while not hot on its desserts or communal table seating, summed it up as "a fantastic new gastropub [and] one of the toughest reservations in all of L.A."
- KevinEats deemed it a "great addition to the neighborhood [with] an eclectic blend of the familiar and the new."
- ShopEatSleep (posting for LAist too) said "if you're looking for a casual meal made with high-quality ingredients and expert cooking, then head over . . . we would go back in a heartbeat."
- DarinDines said this restaurant "prepared plates with familiar, yet engaging flavors . . . I could see why this place was so popular."
- Deep End Dining slyly noted that "neither rain, nor snow, nor sleet, nor hail shall keep the MB Postmen (and women) from their appointed rounds."

More photos on flickr here

MB Post
1142 Manhattan Ave.
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
Facebook

No. 196: Simmzy's (Manhattan Beach)

With the days getting longer & warmer again, I've definitely been struck with nostalgia for the beach and all the tasty bites & sips along the shores. This week, when I was running errands around town in the sunny afternoon -- I got a sudden pang for this:

The Haystack fries at Simmzy's in Manhattan Beach. The preparation is simple (shoestring garlic fries topped with a light buffalo sauce & blue cheese dressing) but was very well-executed, a nuanced balance so that it's not too spicy, not too pungent, not too salty and not too rich. Worlds away from most pub grub that's over-salted, heavy and/or spicy to try to get customers to order more beer (only to have food overpower the finer flavors & aromas of the brew.)

It made for a perfect mid-day bite (esp. in the midst of an Urban Hike, which I was doing up & down the Beach Cities back in September...) and particularly great with one of their cold craft brews on tap--So I definitely love how these fries went well with beer--like the refreshingly crisp, mildly citrusy & spicy Belgian-style Blonde from Brouwerij West.

Of course, next time I'll corral a few more friends so we can taste other crafty brews & nosh on more items @ this Manhattan Beach gem. But I already know what I'll insist on ordering . . .

Simmzy's
229 Manhattan Beach Boulevard
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
(310) 546-1201
Twitter
Facebook

Special Foodventure #154: Cafe Pierre (Manhattan Beach)

As far as food goes, Manhattan Beach had never been high on my radar of destinations; if I was taking an association test, mention of the city will trigger 1) invites from high school & college acquaintances to join them on a drunken caravan and barhop all over the downtown district (invites that I've always declined, btw) 2) the 24-hour Kettle as a Plan B C D if I absolutely needed to grab grub in some crazy time of night in the LAX area 3) fond memories of coordinating and promoting my client's first booksigning when I did freelance PR and 4) a place that leaves me counting down to actual food destinations further south on the 405 such as the Torrance/Gardena Japantown.

So it was quite a surprise when I received a press release (and later, an invite) to Cafe Pierre, headed by Remi Lauvand smack in the middle of downtown MB, alternately between "Really? There?" and "Well, I guess if any neighborhood is need of a fine-dining establishment -- that'd be it!" Since I was no stranger to Remi's tasty creations when was working at Citrus at Social, I accepted the invite to check out the restaurant and what he's bringing to the menu.

Upon my arrival, I was a bit puzzled about why a throng of bloggers were invited to begin with - the place was packed on a Thursday! When I asked their PR about this, I was told that Cafe Pierre has quickly become a neighborhood favorite (confirming my "filling the fine dining niche" theory) but the restaurant is looking to expand their range of clientele, a.k.a. younger foodies from other neighborhoods like me, who wouldn't have been inclined to stop by Manhattan Beach to eat, let alone make a destination out of it. Taking another look at the tables, they do seem more of the olders, locals crowd.

But, onto the food -- which there were lots of! Between family-styling six housemade meat jars, six appetizers, six entrees AND five desserts, I was left worried for my ever expanding belly, and didn't know whether the Cafe Pierre kitchen wanted to showcase a wide range of different things they do well, or if they're taking a scattershot approach and hope that a few good dishes will hit and stick (which sounds bad but is pretty understandable when hosting a diverse group of bloggers, all with their own taste preferences.)

With the exception of one dish (the jarred sardines, with pinbones galore that made it too troublesome to eat) the dishes I had were positive. Now, of the dishes I can't wait to return and order again . . .

Jarred head cheese and pig trotters - while others were gaga over the foie gras parfait w quince confit and spiced bread (good, I'll admit) I was more impressed by these two jarred pork products: a great combo of savoriness, fattiness and tenderness - a profile I associate more with thick-cut pork belly.

Jude Becker's acorn fed hog duo (sausage, short rib) - FoodGPS and Sinosoul did a better job at capturing what makes this dish so good, the only thing I'd reiterate/add is that this dish really reflects the quality and care that went into raising the pigs, resulting in beautifully-flavored and unbelievably-well-marbled meat (several at our table thought we got pork belly because of the striations of fat, but I already took note that what we got was boneless short rib.)

Black sea bass with braised endives, glazed carrots and orange zest - this dish stood out primarily because it's so clean and light compared to all the other heavy dishes on the table, but I also love what the hint of orange did to jazz and brighten up an otherwise simple dish.

70-hour braised short rib (no photo, sorry) - Yes, braised short ribs are pretty easy to make -- but there are versions that are just good, and then there are stellar variety, and I fondly remembered the 36-hour version that Remi offered up at Citrus. While I can't tell whether doubling the braising time made the ribs twice as tasty, the version here was definitely solid, comforting stuff; the beef was remarkably tender, juicy and deliciously saturated with the red wine reduction. The fries were a nice spin and a welcoming textural contrast from the usual mashed potato that typically accompanys this dish.

Baba au rhum w slow-poached pineapples - the most distinctive of the desserts offered, I also loved this best since it was light-yet-substantial, satisfying my sweet fix without weighing me down (as if all the meaty dishes beforehand haven't already done that.)

Thankfully, the price-point at Cafe Pierre is very reasonable (a typical dinner is ~$50/person,) especially with their ever-changing, market-driven prix-fixe, approximately $35 for three courses.

And with all the dishes I can't wait to re-discover, along with new ones I'm eager to try (wild boar ragu with papardelle and portabella! the braised rabbit with gnocchi and wild shrooms!) I do say I AM looking forward to this Manhattan Beach **destination** for future feastings. And maybe finally check out Simmzy's nearby too!

Full flickr set here - better yet, check out weezermonkey's post for some gorgeous photos; and here's LAist's take on the jarred meats

Cafe Pierre
317 Manhattan Beach Blvd
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
310.545.5252
Website
Twitter for restaurant
Twitter for Chef Remi