Tuesday, January 17, 2012

No. 212: A few favorite winter cocktails around town

Now that the cold weather is really upon us (OK, comparatively speaking), what better occasion to warm yourself up with a wintery cocktail? Rather in the form of actually high temperature toddies or teas, or just warming from the spices and aromas, here are a few of my faves from the recent weeks:
Holiday Champagne Cocktail @ Cole's

Holiday Champagne Cocktail @ Cole's - this aromatic sparkler, which to me is the lovechild of a standard Champagne cocktail and a French 75, combined Mumm's Brut with Hendrick's gin, mulled spices syrup, Angostura and a pinch of ground cinnamon. I love how the warm, sweet spices of cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves are amplified by the fizzy bubbles and that the gin gave it an extra oompf (that we ALL need in Winter) plus a floral bouquet subtly reminding me that Spring's not that far away.
Western all'Italiana @ Drago Centro
Western all'Italiana @ Drago Centro - more than just a fun wordplay on Spaghetti Westerns, this cocktail contains both American and Italian flavors--a spicy High West Double Rye is mixed with Cointreau, St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, cranberry+oregano infused molasses & finished with Honeycrisp apples, resulting in a well-rounded cocktail that's edgy with familiar flavors, fruity without being too sweet and deceptively potent. Just ask Connie, Jenny or Andy!
7th St Toddy @ Seven Grand
7th Street Toddy @ Seven Grand - A fun South-of-the-border spin off the traditional Hot Toddy blending Glenfiddich 12 year with Mexican chocolate, Agave nectar and plenty of mint leaves -- all three of which added a delightful vibrancy to the cocktail, like a warmed-up Mint Julep kissed by your Abuelita. And still just as soothing for the throat...
Earl the Pearl @ The Roof on Wilshire
Earl the Pearl @ The Roof on Wilshire* - So simple yet so fun, this DIY drink features a shot of dark rum, a stick of cinnamon, a jar of honey and a pot of Earl Grey de la Creme tea -- all ready for your to mix to your liking. And it's a lovely, well-balanced combination -- the spicy rum is nicely tempered by the sweet, rich honey and both are rounded out by the tea (which complements the rum & honey just enough - the vanilla - without being too matchy-matchy - the bergamot.) As an added bonus, the pot contains more than enough tea for you to have a second cup on its own. And, as my drinking & dining companion Caroline on Crack can attest, this place's got an amazing space & some worthy noshes too!
Cranhattan @ Border Grill DTLA
Cranhattan @ Border Grill Downtown* - Definitely one to file under "don't judge a book by its cover;" despite its Cosmopolitan-esque apperance, it is considerably more mature and regal with a flavor profile that's surprisingly close to a real Manhattan, thanks to the Herradura Añejo that's oaked over two years, a cranberry & orange pureé utilizing the fruits' skins and zest to add a balancing bitterness, a cranberry-brandy liqueur for depth & richness and of course, a skewer of brandied cranberries that's infinitely better than the neon red stuff. Alas, this drink recently rotated out of their menu, but here's the recipe for you to recreate at home--it's worth the effort especially for a gathering! Update: Just heard from Border Grill that they can still make this for a few more weeks - yippee! So get it while it's still around.

*Disclaimer: I sampled the Cranhattan at a hosted tasting, and the Earl the Pearl wound up being comp'd due to a mishap; the others, however, I've tried on my own dime.

118 East 6th Street
Los Angeles, CA

525 S Flower St #120
Los Angeles, CA

515 W 7th Street, 2nd Floor
Los Angeles, CA

6317 Wilshire Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA

445 South Figueroa Street
Los Angeles, CA

Friday, January 13, 2012

Dr Chocolate Appointments w Trader Joe's, Chocolove & Vosges

Everyone may be making New Year's Resolutions, but I'm certainly not giving up on my Dr. Chocolate sessions; here's a recent few that I partook in:

Trader Joe's Caramel & Black Hawaiian Sea Salt bar

Photo courtesy of The Daily Morsel
Cost of Session: $1.99 for 3 oz. bar

Physician Marketing: "...filled with a buttery, burnt sugar caramel & Hiwa Kai, a blend of sea salt and volcanic charcoal harvested from pristine Hawaiian tide pools. The exterior of the bar is garnished with Maldon sea salt harvested from estuaries in Great Britain. The combination of luscious dark chocolate, rich caramel and crunchy salt crystals is simply sublime."

Patient's Notes: Just like their walnut-pecan toffee bar I highlighted in a previous Dr. Chocolate post, this is thinly-veiled copycat version of Vosges' Black Salt Caramel Bar

And the flavor combination is simply amazing! The bold dark chocolate is nice foil for the buttery-rich caramel, and it's elegant accentuated by that perfect sprinkle of salt.

The only demerit is that this bar is rather messy to eat, the caramel is runny & liquidy and the bar rarely snaps at the demarcated boundaries. Of course, this makes portion control hard since you'll be tempted to just eat the whole bar rather than deal with a sticky mess for the next sitting.

Likelihood of Rebooking an Appointment: 7/10, would be a 9 or 10 if not so gosh darn messy to eat.


Chocolove's Ginger Crystallized in Dark Chocolate

Cost of Session: $2.50 for 3.2 oz. bar

Physician Marketing: "Australian crystallized ginger in smooth Belgian 65% cocoa content dark chocolate. Upon eating, the chocolate gives way to soft sugar-coated moist chunks of ginger. The transition from chocolate to ginger on the finish leaves you feeling surprisingly stimulated and wanting more."

Patient's Notes: Anyone who's gone eating or drinking with me knows I'm a sucker for ginger, and this certainly delivers on that front -- there are plenty of this palate-pleaser throughout the whole bar. A little spicy, a little chewy and a little crunchy (from the sugar coating,) it's a delightful palate-tingler.

As for the chocolate itself, it's decent if a bit a generic -- dark enough that you taste the cacao, but not much else. It's also ever-so-slightly waxy, making it more of a chewing chocolate rather than one you simply allow to melt on your tongue. Not necessarily a bad thing, given the chewy of nature of the encapsulated ginger anyways.

Likelihood of Rebooking an Appointment: 8/10, affordable and tasty overall - only wished the chocolate was more of a "meltable on tongue" kind.


Vosges' Smoke & Stout Caramel Bar
Cost of Session: $7.50 for a 3 oz. bar

Physician Marketing: "Rogue's Chocolate Stout + Alderwood smoked salt + burnt sugar caramel + 70% dark chocolate . . . Your senses of sight, smell, and taste will collectively surrender to the inebriating potion that spills out of this chocolate bar. Rich, dark chocolate stout and Alder wood smoked salt are combined with soft, oozing caramel and encased in deep, dark chocolate."

Patient's Notes: Reading the description, I can see so many ways this bar can go wrong (is it going to wreak of stale beer or overpowered with smoke like a BBQ gone awry?) but being a longtime Vosges addict fan, I trust them to know what they're doing. And indeed, this bar is a wonderful balance of flavors, the stout & smoke notes come in kisses & whispers, making this bar a curiously addictive one.

And while the flavor profile is overall better than the TJ caramel bar, it too suffers the problem of too-runny caramel and unreliable bar breakage. And oh yeah, it's also over three times as pricey.

Likelihood of Rebooking an Appointment: 7/10, also marked down for caramel runniness -- tempted to also demerit for pricetag, but the eccentric ingredients & combo of flavor (how often are you going to find a beery chocolate?) makes a worthwhile... if occasional... treat.

Monday, January 09, 2012

No. 211: Off-the-Strip in Vegas - Alizé

Having been to Vegas so many times in my past (it's practically an annual tradition for me & my friends from high school,) I am no stranger to all the places to eat & drink on the Strip. The buffets! The happy hours! The late-night joints for post-clubbing nosh! All of which are kinda yawn for me by now (especially given their recent proliferation of ripoffs from LA, SF, DC & NY restaurants.) So on my excursion last month, I made more of an attempt to wander off Las Vegas Blvd. for some truly distinctive bites & sips.

Palms Exterior
Which brings me to Alizé at the Top of the Palms.
Lower Lobby
Even though the meal is partially-hosted, my attempt to give it a preliminary incognito checkout @ the bar was foiled, as there was a receptionist checking me in @ the ground level elevator.
View
And... they certainly weren't kidding about the amazing view from the 56th floor. This photo doesn't do justice to the gorgeous panorama of scintillating lights and sparkles of the Strip & the city itself.
Wild Turkey Manhattan
While deliberating on what to order, I got a Wild Turkey Manhattan. Purists might scoffed that it was not stirred, but it was not quite shaken either -- rather, it was more of a gentle rolling slosh in the shaker, and the resulting drink was still rather smooth and velvety with a nice balance of the vermouth & bitter aromas with the snappy, spicy bite of the rye.

Alas, despite promises of foie gras, duck breast & rib eye on their Chef's Tasting Menu -- I opted for the Vegetarian Tasting Menu instead, partly to take the road less traveled, partly because I've already eaten too much meat & seafood thus far in my Vegas weekender, but mostly because I'm impressed with the variety of items & preparations offered on that menu, instead of looking like a bunch of side dishes cobbled together.
Wine List
Equally impressive was their tablet-based SmartCellar, which made for easy browsing and choosing of their 7,500+ wines--particularly with sorting by price range, regions, varietals, etc. Some of the details do lean on the generic side, but I have no doubt that a knowledgeable sommelier would be on-hand to give personal attention & TLC should the need arise . . .
Butter Lettuce & Beet Salad
Starting off the seven-course tasting was the butter lettuce & beet salad w candied walnuts. Lovely color and I loved the square-cut slices of the beets, and overall the salad tasted as colorful as it looked, with the tender and crisp leaves anchoring the flavors of the sweet and crunchy walnuts and the tender, earthy beets. And the dressing--a citrus-creme fraiche-shallot vinaigrette--was a wonderful combination of contradictions, rich & decadent but also delicate & bright at the same time, with the creamy texture nicely melding with its tangy savoriness.
Piquillo Pepper w Provencal Vegetables
Next up was a piquillo pepper stuffed with Provencal vegetables and herbed cream cheese. It was a festive melange of zesty & bold flavors, reminiscent of a ratatouille given a little more substance & oompf with the cheese. And the colorful streaks of red pepper puree & basil-infused olive oils added even more zippiness to the equation!
Asparagus Risotto
Following that was an asparagus risotto with truffle beurre monte & gruyere cheese. Subtle yet sublime with perfectly cooked rice (tender but with a toothy texture), a sauce that's thoroughly but delicately infused with truffles, and asparagus that retained its snappy-firm texture and bright, sweet-grassy flavor. What I love best is that this, like the salad dressing, felt like an indulgence without being over-the-top, guilt-inducing rich. Definitely gives me something to aspire to in my own risotto-cooking at home, which does lean a little heavier & a little cheesier.
Intermezzo
Before moving onto the heartier savories, I was presented with a palate-cleansing intermezzo of tropical fruit sorbet with pomegranate arils. It was indeed refreshing & tangy but may have been frozen a tad too long, it did take a pretty decent hammering with my spoon before the shot-sized scoop broke apart.
Pascual Toso '09 Malbec
To go the more entreé-ish dishes, I ordered a glass of the 2009 Pascual Toso Malbec, which was silky-smooth with soft tannins, a minor kick of peppery bite and pleasant notes of plum, strawberry and cocoa (though not so much that it smells & tastes like a chocolate-covered starburst.) But do note that by-the-glass markup here is on the high side -- this particular Malbec being $16 for a bottle that costs around $9-10 (the general rule of thumb being a restaurant's by-the-glass pour should be around the bottle's retail price.)
Royal Trumpet Mushroom
The first of the mains was a Royal Trumpet Mushroom atop a roasted potato galette in a pool of huckleberry-green peppercorn sauce with microgreens and a caramelized clementine crisp. With the mushroom being braised or poached, I wasn't sure it would hold up to the other more assertive flavors, but it worked surprisingly well -- lending a meaty texture and slight woodsy taste that complemented the latke-ish galette, celeryish greens, and the vibrant citrus & sauce that's fruity without being cloyingly sweet--the last of which I may have impolitely used bread to lap up long after everything else is gone.
Black Pepper-Crusted Tofu
The other entree in the tasting that was a black-pepper crusted tofu spaced with sweet potatoes, topped with toasted marcona almonds and an apricot glaze. Like the mushroom dish, it was a nice contrast of sweet, spicy and savory. I particularly love the combo of the intensely-fruity glaze against the piquant punch of the cracked peppercorns coating the tofu, which has a delightful crispy shell that quickly gives way to a luxuriously creamy interior. Last but not least, kudos to the accompanying vegetables, which still retained their integrity in flavor and texture (unlike many places that oversteam them to a soft & mushy, generic- & greyish- tasting goop.)
Cheese & Apples
Following up was the cheese course featuring rectangular slices of Stilton with Port-poached figs a chocolate covered square of apple. In short, lots of intense flavors on one plate--from the funk of the bleu to the concentrated tangy-sweetness of the figs and the bittersweet dark chocolate--that I loved mixing and matching with. And to no surprise, the apple itself kind of got lost in the whirlwind of sharp tastes, but it did lend a pleasant crunch to the whole affair.
Poached Pear Brunoise
Desserts started with a poached pear brunoise in vanilla broth, topped with Belle de Brillet ice cream. Despite the plain color palette, this tasted heavenly - with an exquisite explosion of ripe, juicy pear aromas and flavors delightfully rounded out by the rich & comforting vanilla.
Raspberry-Filled Cheesecake
Afterwards was a deconstructed raspberry cheesecake of sorts, with a raspberry filled block of cheesecake coated in graham cracker crumbs accompanied by a graham cracker crisp and curls of dark chocolate. The cheesecake was solid (creamy, not-too-sweet, delicate tang with a punch of fruitiness) but felt a bit too cautious compared to the pear & vanilla. I almost want to invert the sweets order, favoring familiar to playful over light to heavy, so the final impression would be more of a bang.

But overall, Alizé certainly delivered on its promises, the ambience and views are amazing, the service polished and professional without being overbearingly fussy and a tasting menu that delightfully dances back and forth between comforting & curiosity-inducing dishes. And a definite top of my list as a recommendation for a "dinner to impress" in Las Vegas, and especially so for vegetarians & or even just veg-lovers... there aren't too many places where you'll find a tasting menu as dynamic and elegant as this one in the land of prime ribs, lobster tails and foie gras.

4321 W Flamingo Road
Las Vegas 89103
(702) 951-7000

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

No. 210: Caviar 101 Tasting @ Petrossian (West Hollywood)

Petrossian's been doing their Caviar 101 class for a while now, and having missed the caviar boat completely the last time I was there (a.k.a during my strictly vegetarian phase) -- I took the plunge earlier this month, not knowing exactly what to expect, giving my woeful lack of experience & knowledge with this gourmet treat.
Chris Klapp
Thankfully, there really are no questions too dumb to ask here, and General Manager Christopher Klapp (in foreground) was extraordinarily patient and tactful responding to a broad range of inquiries (ranging from a comparatively basic "are the caviar-producing fishes wild-caught or farmed?" [at Petrossian, the vast majority are sustainably farmed] to being quizzed average size/weight of sturgeon [varies considerably depending on species & region caught/raised].)
Caviar Shot
Likewise, it was definitely enlightening to go through a structured, almost-analytical tasting of different caviar and other fish roe (Klapp noted that real caviar should really be sturgeon eggs that are salted & processed in a specific fashion, not just any 'ole roe.) 
Caviar Sampling
In a manner similar to wine tasting, we were encouraged to engage all our senses -- from looking at the color & size of the roe, to smelling for any particular aromas, to the tactile feel & audible sound of the beads as they roll and pop in your mouth, and of course the eventual flavors that land on the tastebuds.
Pommery Champagne
And on this particular Caviar 101 class, instead of the usual glass of vodka or champagne that comes with the tasting, the brand ambassador from Pommery took us through a flight of their champagnes to mix, match & pair with the caviars (pictured above is their Brut Rosé.) Of the four, I found the Pommery Brut Royal most memorable, with a creamy-toasty aroma that quickly gives way to a bright, citrusy tang and a clean, dry finish. 

The assorted fish roe and caviar samples were served on plastic spoons, since Klapp mentioned that metal affects the flavor of the caviar--and quickly added their tins are lined to protect the flavor & integrity of the caviar.
Caviar Flatbread
Between samplings, we were also treated a few snacky, caviar-infused bites by Chef Gisele Wellman, including flatbread topped with caviar, chopped egg, chives and capers and a refreshing, multi-faceted shot of caviar with diced watermelon, microgreen, sesame and ginger-soy sauce. 

And while the kitchen does have fun and take liberties with incorporating caviar, Klapp said he prefers savoring caviar in a simple, traditional manner (with just blini and creme fraiche) so that the roe's flavor not interrupted or overshadowed. Nonetheless, he conceded that there are many traditions and styles of enjoying caviar, and if customers prefer a little onion or capers or other stronger accompaniments, that's OK with him too.
Caviar 101 Menu
Last but not least, I found out I'm sort of a cheap date as far as my caviar tastes go. To mitigate price-related biases, we tasted our way through the eight roes without knowing how much each costs (though I did suspect we were going from cheapest to priciest.) My favorite of the tasting was the Wild-Caught Hackleback from the Midwest U.S. of A., which had a sublime oiliness with a intense flavor and bewitching aroma that I can only best describe as "amplified sashimi." And for 30g (approx. 2 tablespoons,) it clocked in at $55. Still a luxury item in my book, but small fry compared to Royal Ossetra--which we also tried--that's $139 for the same portion.

And throughout the tasting, Klapp sprinkled in all sorts of fun trivia about raising, sorting/grading, storing and serving caviar . . . but I'll let you discover these fun tidbits yourself. Needless to say, I found the experience more than worth the $35 (+tax/tip). But be sure to R.S.V.P., it was a full house when I went and it only takes place two days out of each month (first Thurs & Fri).

Or, if you have a little more experience, sophistication and discretionary income ($75 + tax/tip) -- Petrossian also offers a Caviar 201 session on the last Thurs. & Fri. of each month, offering a few more snacks, more luxe caviar tastings and a little more fun with beverage pairings. And something for me to aspire to... in the meantime, I might consider wrangling a few friends and share a formal tasting of that Hackleback.

What Do Others Say About Caviar 101?
- LA Weekly said it's "one class we wouldn't mind running late" considering "in most classes, you don't get to drink vodka and eat caviar. [Here] you do nothing but."
Eric the Epicure said "if you love the fancy black stuff, but don't know much about it, this is a great chance to learn more about caviar from one of the world's finest purveyors"
- Caroline on Crack shared her top 10 learnings from this class and "came away an appreciator of salty pearls."
- Deep End Dining wrote a hilarious post on the experience, concluding that the roe "were all buttery, nutty and briny and definitely vodka-y by the end of the class."

321 North Robertson Boulevard
West Hollywood, CA 90048-2415
(310) 271-6300

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Recipe 30: Chives n Cheese Cream Scone


As I noted time and again, while I love to cook, I don't fancy myself as much of a baker--a craft that's finicky with exact measurements and pretty much a done deal once you pop it in the oven. So when Hodgson Mill approached me to do a Grain Day contest featuring their flours, I was flummoxed for a baked good that's simple, delicious and a wee bit playful.

But then I remembered a simple Cream Scones recipe that turned out well for a brunch with preserves and clotted cream, so I adapted a savory version that will be great on its own (or perhaps with a pat 'o butter or some gravy.)
Chive Cheese Scone
Sure enough, the Chives 'n Cheese Scones came out wonderfully - a little savory backed with a truly wheaty flavor and crumbly texture. But what makes it truly heavenly was its slightly onion-y aroma and the gooey, melty cheese strands when you bite/pull it apart while it's still steamy-warm out of the oven. 

And if even I can make them, they are pretty much foolproof for any "I don't bake" types. So here's the recipe!


Ingredients (for 12 scones)
3 cups flour (I used Hodgson Mill's Stone-Ground Whole Wheat)
2 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon onion powder
1/3 cup (6 tablespoon) unsalted butter
1 & 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
3/4 cup shredded cheese (I used sharp cheddar)
2 tablespoons of coarsely chopped fresh chives

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 400F, line a baking sheet with parchment paper
Sifted Dry Ingredients
2. Sift together flour, baking powder, sugar, salt and onion powder
Wet Ingredients Added
3. Melt the unsalted butter, combine with heavy whipping cream and fold into the dry ingredients with spatula -- it will have the texture of a slightly sticky dough.
Kneading Time
4. Pour cheese & chives onto the dough and knead in with your hands until they're evening distributed throughout the dough.

5. Pull out pieces of dough and hand roll into individual spherical scones (or whatever shape you prefer, really) and place evenly across baking sheet.
Ready to Bake
6. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes (it will be a golden with slight browning on top.)

7. Remove, let cool for a few minutes and enjoy (they are great the day after too, just reheat in the microwave for half a minute.)

**Giveaway Contest Closed**

In addition to providing the flour for this recipe, Hodgson Mill is also graciously offering a giveaway with a $25 gift certificate to their online store. To enter, simply comment with your e-mail address & favorite baked good to make @ home. I will choose the winner at random by tomorrow, Dec. 16, at 10:30 a.m. Pacific Time. Good luck!